Saturday, May 30, 2015

Switzerland Part 2: Jungfraujoch - The Top of Europe


Written by Jadon

Between our two rainy days in Zurich, we took a daylong bus tour to Jungfraujoch, and as I said in the last blog, this was the highlight of our trip to Switzerland. Because of the weather the day before and the forecast for the day after, we were very worried that our time in the Alps would be plagued by bad weather. But the closer we got to Jungfrau, the better the weather got! Our tour guide told us that this often happens because of the east/west alignment of the Alps and the wind movement in the area (primarily moving down from the north or up from the south). So it turned out that we had a perfect day in the mountains.

But what is Jungfrau, and what is Jungfraujoch?

Jungfrau is one of the tallest mountains in Europe. It is 4158 meters (13642 ft.) tall, and for comparison, Pikes Peak in Colorado—not the tallest mountain in America, but one of the best known—is 5530 ft. tall.

Jungfraujoch sits in a shallow valley between Jungfrau and its neighboring peak Mönch. It is the highest tourist accessible point in the Alps, and because of this, it is often called the Top of Europe. The Sphinx Observatory (Jungfraujoch’s highest point) has an elevation of 3454 meters or 11,333 ft. Of course, since Jungfraujoch is also a tourist location, there are stores, restaurants, a post office, outdoor walkways, and a Lindt chocolatier—it is Switzerland after all.
The map of our train journey up the mountain.
But anyway…Despite being stuck on a bus for a large portion of the day, the tour was fantastic. As mentioned before, the weather slowly got better and better as the day went on. What started as a gloomy, drizzly day slowly dried up, and then slowly got brighter and clearer. Each time our skilled bus driver navigated us around another bend in the mountain roads, the sun was shining just a little brighter. And each time we would get a new breathtaking vista to stare in awe at.

Just before we headed up into the first real mountain pass that our bus would drive through, we stopped at a viewpoint, overlooking the “moderate” hills and valleys we had just driven through. At this point the sun was just beginning to push the clouds away. Beneath us there was a long lake that stretched back around the green topped mountains and out of site. It was so beautiful.

We headed up into the pass and into the trees, and we only got glimpses through the branches of the view we had just had. And then without warning we broke through the other side, and the earth seemingly fell away, and across the narrow flat valley a wall of tree-covered slopes stretched up into the sunlight. The view before had been beautiful, but this was a redefinition of what height and depth and green could really mean. The forest still clung to our peripheral vision, but before us was the open sky, below us the lush valley, and, as though just beyond reach across the height, the verdant arms of another mountain stretched to enfold our entire view. And then it was gone. The road turned, and the bus took us back into the trees and down to the valley below. And I want to say it was the most _______ view I have ever seen, but I don’t know what word to use, and it wouldn’t sound good enough anyway. But maybe the word is resonant—that one perfect chord or sound or vibration that continues to echo and call to you. I could have sat for years drinking in that view, and perhaps it is good that that possibility was taken away.

Not long after our bus left the pass, we arrived in Interlaken. Interlaken is situated between two lakes—hence the name—and it sits in a flat expanse right at the foot of the mountains that our tour was taking us to. We had some time to get out and explore the city, but we wish we could have had more time to just sit and soak up the view. Near our bus stop, there was a huge meadow with benches on one side, and the feet of the frozen peaks on the other. It was one of our favorite spots on the trip, but we had to get back on the bus soon after arriving, and didn’t have much extra time to soak up the view.
Our bus then traveled on to Grindelwald, and up into the mountains proper. As much as Interlaken was at the foot of the mountains, Grindelwald was already climbing up the side. By the time we had gotten there our ears had popped two or three times, and the tips of the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau were looming increasingly close above our heads. I think this is where we also realized what we were actually about to do. I know I said something like “Um. So we are going up there…” Here we also left the bus and boarded the first of two trains, and soon after leaving our train took us up into the snow.
View of the mountain range from Grindelwald
We switched trains at Kleine Scheidegg—which is basically at the top of a mountain itself, but only a 2061 meter one (Ha. Only.)—and the second train took us through a 45-50 minute tunnel that cuts through the core of the Monch and finally up to the Top of Europe.
View of the Sphinx Observatory from where we switched trains

Close-up of the Sphinx Observatory
The altitude at Jungfraujoch is such that oxygen levels are 25-30% less than normal, and our guide cautioned us to walk slowly and breathe deeply. I’m not sure how much it affected us, but I know that some others on our tour had to sit down and rest for a while.

Of course the best part of Jungfraujoch is the observation deck, where you can actually walk outside and look back down. Or up. There is still a sizable chunk of mountain above you. And it is a magnificent view, although rather white due to the amount of snow and ice. Only after standing out on the observation deck in just above freezing temperatures, did we realize that the industrial steel web of flooring could be looked through. For the most part it is only a foot or two above solid rock. For the most part…
View from The "Top of Europe"
With Emily at the "Top of Europe"
And then, really not that long after, we got back on the long tunnel train and descended into the light rain we had outrun at the mountain pass hours before. The gloomy weather slowly overtook us, but our time at the top was so unexpectedly clear, we didn’t even mind.

Jungfraujoch was the destination and climax of the day, but there were so many breathtaking views on our drive/train ride in and around the mountains, that the actual destination was just one of many outstanding moments. From the ice blue and white glaciers at the top, to the hundreds of waterfalls cascading their way down the mountains from the melting snow at the top, Jungfraujoch was a trip we won’t forget. 
 To see more pictures from our trip in the Swiss Alps, click here!

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